In an effort to be better about keeping up with this blog, I have decided I need to write one post a week about whatever we are currently up to, and one about a story I am going to forget if I do not write it down soon. My 43 year old memory just is not what it used to be 😂
We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Thailand. We spent about three weeks in Bangkok, then another three weeks in Hua Hin. About a week into our stay in Hua Hin, we realized we wanted to see more of Thailand and stay longer, so we began the process of extending our visas. Because we did not have a single address and were staying in Airbnbs instead of hotels, the process became more complicated. There was red tape our hosts needed to get through in order to register us as guests. Our hosts were very gracious and tried to help, but they were also foreigners, which made the whole thing a bit of a pain.
Jered and I talked it over and decided the best way to stay in Thailand was to leave and do a border run. We explored all our options and ultimately decided to visit Laos for a week. Flying to Vietnam was an option, but we knew we wanted to spend more time there than a quick turnaround. Another option was a long boat crossing from Thailand to Myanmar for a short touch and go, but Myanmar is currently a Level 4 threat according to the US State Department, which felt like more risk than we were willing to take, especially with the kids. Land crossings from Thailand to Cambodia were also off the table due to border tensions. That left us with the most practical option: an overnight train from Bangkok to the Thailand and Laos border, followed by a bus across Friendship Bridge 1 into Vientiane, the capital of Laos.
As it turns out, we were happily surprised by Laos, and we both wished we had booked more time there.
We booked the overnight train from Bangkok to Nong Khai and arranged for a private van to pick us up at our Airbnb in Hua Hin and take us to the train station in Bangkok. We stopped for lunch at a local spot on the beach in Cha-am. After some really good food and my heart nearly falling out of my chest when I briefly thought we had lost Ainsley, we were back on the road.
We arrived at the train station about six hours before departure. With all our luggage in tow, we decided to just settle in and wait it out. The station itself was interesting, with food vendors similar to what you see on the street and a really cool 3d model of the station
It was built with the future in mind, so much of it is still unused. With so much space, it felt strangely empty and busy at the same time.
Ethan was incredibly helpful in planning this part of the trip. He researched the train ride and made sure we knew one very important detail: the air conditioning works really well. We dug hoodies and sweatpants out of the depths of our luggage, items we had barely touched since leaving cold Normandy, except for that one time in Sevilla when we lost power for two days and the AC finally kicked back on.
At exactly 8:25 pm, the train departed Bangkok for Nong Khai. By 9 pm, the steward came through to convert our seats into beds, which meant pajamas on and lights out whether we were ready or not. Sleep was interesting, gently rocked by the movement of the train while still very aware of everything happening beyond the curtains.
We arrived early the next morning and began the process of crossing into Laos. First, we piled into the back of a truck to reach Thai immigration and get stamped out. Then we crowded onto a bus to cross Friendship Bridge into Laos. Immigration was fairly straightforward, and from there we loaded into yet another truck and headed into the heart of Vientiane to our hotel along the Mekong River.
Our hotel was beautiful, filled with ornate teak carvings. We arrived early, so our rooms were not ready yet. We settled into the restaurant with coffee for us and smoothies for the kids. That first taste of Lao iced coffee ruined me in the best way. I am not sure Starbucks will ever measure up, which honestly applies to most of the coffee we have had on this adventure.
Once our rooms were ready, we finished some homework and set out to explore Vientiane. Dinner that night was at a tucked away restaurant that was Instagram perfect, with twinkling lights in the trees, garden tables, and an excellent meal for about one million kip, roughly forty five dollars. After dinner, we wandered the night market. The art was beautiful, the handmade carvings were tempting, and then there was the bag.
I have coveted a blue and cream Christian Dior bag for a long time, and there she was, the knockoff version, calling my name for forty dollars. I did not buy it that night. I thought about it. The next evening, we returned to the market. As Jered picked out art for our future home, I spotted her again, right next door. I debated a little longer, then asked Jered for cash.
No sooner had he handed it to me than I saw someone walking away with MY bag. Gone. Out of my life forever. They had another color, but it was not the one. I pocketed the cash and walked away empty handed. I have looked for her in every market since, and she has not reappeared. But she will. I am convinced I am meant to have her someday.
The next day, we set out to explore some history and visited the MAG UXO Museum. It was another humbling experience on this journey and an absolute must do when visiting Laos. The museum itself is small. One room displays unexploded ordnance found across the countryside. Another room plays videos with testimonials from people who have been injured or lost limbs after encountering ordnance in jungles and rice paddies. Some stories focus on children who mistook the bombies for toys.
MAG, along with organizations like COPE, focuses on clearing unexploded ordnance, educating communities about the dangers, and supporting those injured by explosions they never expected. It is impossible to fully understand the weight of it all, but it stays with you long after you leave.
After the museum, we wandered another part of town, browsing shops without buying much since everything has to fit in our already full luggage. We stopped into Starbucks for a PSL and a small taste of home, plus another mug for our You Were Here collection. That evening, we returned to the night market for dinner and more bag hunting before heading back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep.
The next morning, we were up early to catch the 9 am train from Vientiane to the mountain city of Luang Prabang. The hotel arranged a van to the station, and we were on our way. The scenery along the route was beautiful. We were briefly concerned when a toddler behind us alternated between crying and blasting Baby Shark at full volume. Ainsley and I made silly faces at him, and once the train started moving, he fell fast asleep. Silence. I have been there, and I never judge, but I was very grateful it did not last three hours. I have made it a point to try to help moms when we encounter fussy babies. A little peek-a-boo goes a long way.
We arrived on the outskirts of Luang Prabang and took a van into the city. I had originally booked a resort outside of town, but on the recommendation of our hotel restaurant manager in Vientiane, we canceled and rebooked something in the city. I am so glad we did.
Our hotel was right in the center of everything. The night market started just outside our door. We could look out the window and chat with people cooking incredible food in the alley below. At check in, we were greeted with a blue butterfly pea lemonade that quickly became a favorite for me and the kids, and later evolved into a cocktail version just for me.
We spent our evenings exploring the night market. It was not huge, but every walk through revealed something new. Jered and I picked out more art to take home. I also went to a head spa for the first time, which was incredibly relaxing. I loved it so much that I took Ainsley back a few days later and did it again.
One day, we hired a truck to show us around the area. We visited the COPE Visitor Centre. COPE, similar to the MAG museum in Vientiane, is dedicated to UXO education and to supporting those injured by unexploded ordnance. The visitor centre itself is part of a larger campus that focuses on prosthetics and rehabilitation for survivors. Seeing the museum alongside the active work being done on site made the experience feel immediate and deeply personal. It was another humbling stop on this journey, one that left me quietly emotional and wiping away tears.
We also stopped at the confluence of the Nam Khan River and the Mekong, where a beautiful park is taking shape. You can really see the effort being put into making it a great public space. We checked out a tattoo shop that ultimately was not our vibe, and on the drive back, our driver recommended a pizza place along the Mekong.
After cleaning up at the hotel, we headed back out, completely unprepared for the view. The sunset over the river was unreal. The number of incredible sunsets we have seen on this trip is astonishing. Every time I say it is the best one yet, and somehow that keeps being true.
For our last full day in Luang Prabang, we booked a driver to take us to Tat Sae Waterfalls for the jungle zipline experience. At the base of the falls is a bear sanctuary. Most of the bears were napping in the heat, but the ones we did see were painfully cute. Then came the climb. 542 steps to the top of the falls, plus another twenty to reach the treehouse where we were geared up.
It was worth every. Single. Step.
It was just the four of us and two guides, and they were relaxed and fun. We did tricks off the platforms and soaked up the experience. I did not even worry about photos because one of the guides took my phone before the first line and did not give it back until the camera roll was full after twenty ziplines. It was a perfect family day.
Afterward, the kids and I swam in one of the waterfall pools before heading back to town to pack for our next adventure. Laos was so much more than we ever expected, and we definitely left enough unexplored to justify a return someday.
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