Marrakech, Morocco: We’re on Vacation!!

We’re on VACATION!!
Just kidding. We’re doing our best to live, not vacation. To travel, not just be tourists.

In reality, that means plenty of days spent in our Airbnb, sitting in front of the computer, doing homework, researching future destinations, and tackling life’s little chores. There’s laundry to do, dishes to wash, and floors to sweep from all the dirt we’ve tracked in from the street.

Jered is determined to stay fit, so one of the first things he does when we arrive somewhere new is hunt down sand to fill his GORUCK sandbag. In fact, he’s tossing that sandbag around right now while Ethan and Ainsley work on school assignments, and I sit here writing about them (and shamelessly admiring Jered as he works out in front of me).

This is an incredible adventure, and we’ve had the chance to do some really cool things, but we’re also doing the boring and mundane. Some days, we don’t leave the house except to grab food.

When we’re lucky, homework gets done in a beautiful, breezy riad in Marrakech or a well-air-conditioned condo in Tangier. Other times, it’s 94°F in a stuffy Paris apartment with no A/C, funky smells, and windows that don’t open. It’s all about balance.

We’re on a fixed income this year, living off VA benefits and Army retirement, which means we can’t be in vacation mode all the time. Sure, we hit the major Paris landmarks- the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, Notre Dame, and Versailles, but Jered was behind in school because of the move and missed most of those outings just trying to catch up. It sucked, but that’s life.

Even on the days we do something “vacation-y,” we still squeeze in homework and other responsibilities.

Yesterday morning, our friend Izdi arranged a walking tour of the Marrakech Medina for us. We met our awesome guide, Hassan, at Riad La Vie, a stunning boutique hotel owned by our friends Dan and Izdi. We were back at our own riad by 2 p.m. to send out laundry, do homework, squeeze in a workout, and get some writing done.

The tour itself was amazing. Hassan started by taking us through Bahia Palace, where we learned just how deeply Islamic culture is embedded in everyday life here, even the architecture. The Five Pillars of Islam are reflected everywhere, often in subtle, beautiful ways.

We also learned that an Islamic man can take up to four wives, provided he can provide for them all equally. The tradition originally stemmed from the need to care for widows after war.

After the palace, we wandered through the Medina to grab breakfast, our growing boy needed protein. He enjoyed an omelet while we relaxed with lattes on a rooftop terrace. Then we headed to Medersa Ben Youssef, the oldest university in Morocco.

The architecture in both Bahia Palace and Medersa Ben Youssef was absolutely stunning. I’m constantly blown away by the intricate hand-carved wood and detailed plasterwork. The medersa has been recently renovated, restorers carefully removed layers of paint, dirt, and grime to reveal its original beauty. It’s an incredible place, steeped in history.

After a quick stroll through the Medina, we returned to Riad La Vie for tea on the terrace and a tour of their beautifully restored space. If you ever find yourself in Marrakech, I highly recommend staying there, the home is gorgeous and the staff is incredibly kind.

As we were returning to the Riad La Vie the kids asked to go get ice cream, and when I said “No” Hassan said, “But they’re on vacation.” Jered and I both, at the same time, said, “This is NOT vacation.”

We wrapped up the day back at Riad Rouge Gorge for more homework, a refreshing dip in the soaking pool, and dinner out with our friends and their sweet babies, Greek food to end a very full and very real day.


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